We are
Alasdair and Clare, who live and work at Coille Bheag along with our
sons Callum, who is training to be a forester, and Ruairdhri who is
still at school.
We
live on the shores of Loch Ewe, a sea loch on the north-west coast of
Scotland. As well as renting The
Cottage and The Lodge to
visitors, we are also involved in a range of crofting activities, from
growing organic vegetables for local sale, to arts and media-related
businesses such as writing and music. You can sometimes catch Ally and
Clare in local band Black
Cherry, playing their unique blend of soft jazz, blues and folk
with their friend, harpist Carole.
The
music you are listening to is our cover of Mark Lanegan's One Hundred
Days.
And
as we grow much of our own food, Ally is also half of local healthy
cookery demonstration team "Two Fat Gents" (we keep telling
him he's not fat, but the name kind of stuck.) Ally comes from a Highland
family but spent his childhood in London, where he later met and married
Clare. Our family moved back to Scotland in 1999, when the children
were aged 6 and 4. We acquired a six-acre croft, renovated the 150-year
old cottage for rental
and built ourselves a new family home. By 2007 demand for the cottage
was so high that we built a new
timber eco-lodge for rental on the other side of the croft.
What
exactly is a croft?
It's not
a house as many people think - it's a kind of smallholding used for
growing food and/or grazing sheep and cattle. Historically, crofters
were small tenant farmers in the Highlands and Islands, altough more
recently some families (such as ours) have bought their crofts and become
owner-occupiers. Most Highland crofts still have their traditional stone-built
cottages (croft houses), although many have fallen into ruin. In recent
years, some croftland has been turned over to grass. We still work our
croft, so it's a real farm environment. There are areas of woodland,
rough meadow and cultivated plots as well as areas planted with grass
and shrubs where you can sit out and enjoy the view, and you are welcome
to wander where you please.
It's Gaelic
for little wood. About an acre of our croft is wooded; the rest is open
meadowland or under cultivation, growing organic
produce.
How
do you pronounce it?
Curl-yer-veck
is about as near as you can get in English...don't worry, we hear all
sorts of variations.
Where
is it?
It's
on the western shore of Loch Ewe, a few miles north-west of Poolewe.
Loch Ewe itself is a large sea-loch on the west coast of Scotland. Twenty
minutes way by car is Gairloch - the place where BBC TV reality series
Love Comes To Town was filmed - and the port of Ullapool is an hour's
drive away. Inverness is the nearest city. Here's a map of the Northern
Highlands region (in red) showing where we are. We will give you detailed
directions when you book so that you don't get lost. Please don't rely
on your satnav to get you to us - once you get out of the towns into
very rural areas like ours it can't really cope and certainly won't
bring you all the way to our door.
How
private are the properties?
There
are three detached houses on the croft. The oldest is The
Cottage, which is about 150 years old and was the original croft
house. The newest is The Lodge
which is a new timber dwelling. The other house is our own family home.
None of the houses directly overlook each other and each is self-contained
with complete privacy -- but we're there if you need us or if you have
any questions. All the houses are situated some way from the nearest
road, which is a single-track country lane with very little traffic.
We
don't know which one to book - what's the difference between the two
properties?
The
Cottage offers you the chance to stay in a traditional 150-year
old croft house with all its associated quirks! It's rustic, homely
and has masses of character - ideal for families or couples who want
to enjoy a typical farm-style holiday. It has a practical modern kitchen/diner
and bathroom (with bath and shower) to complement its many original
features - a real stone fireplace where you can make a coal fire, thick
stone walls and the original sleeping lofts with sloping roofs. There
are three bedrooms (one of which is downstairs) and the cottage sleeps
up to 6, plus a baby if you have one! It's
not a standardised luxury-style property but it's friendly, comfortable
and individual. We're happy to welcome families with pets and smoking
is permitted - in the conservatory only!
The
Lodge offers a different experience to complement the Cottage. It's
a more luxurious environment for a holiday, ideal for couples, although
it will sleep up to 4 in two bedrooms - plus extra person in folding
bed or baby cot if you wish! It has eco-friendly electric heating and
insulation, wooden floors, double glazing and enjoys exactly the same
spectacular views as The Cottage through its huge picture windows. The
master bedroom is a galleried area situated on the mezzanine level and
there is a second double bedroom, shower room and open-plan living/kitchen
area downstairs. The Lodge is a non-smoking environment and does not
accept pets. With its entrance ramp, ground-floor bedroom, clean wooden
floors, dust-free heating and no-pets policy, it's also probably the
best choice for anyone with allergies, or for the disabled.
Is
there space to park?
There
is parking for up to two cars per property (more can be accommodated
on the croft by arrangement). All cars are parked on our land at guests'
own risk.
What
are the roads like?
Very
good, although many are single-track. Drive carefully, watch out for
sheep and deer, especially at night, and sometimes cattle on single-track
country roads. Use the frequent passing places where necessary. If you're
ambling along enjoying the view, please do pull over and let local cars
overtake. Keep an eye on your petrol - the nearest filling station is
in Gairloch and it's not open on a Sunday. If you're travelling through
Scotland in snowy conditions or when there are flood warnings in force,
it's wise to check beforehand that the roads you'll be using are open.
Try BBC
Weather (Northern Scotland) and SEPA
for up-to-date weather warnings.
What's
the weather like?
No-one
in their right mind would come to Scotland for its hot and sunny weather,
but although the climate can be uncertain the Gulf Stream (North Atlantic
Drift) keeps us safe from the extremes of cold you'll find in other
parts of Scotland, and even in winter you'll
be pleasantly surprised by how mild our climate is on the west coast.
When there's snow on the mountains, it can still be T-shirt weather
on the beach. However, it does rain a lot in the winter, especially
at sea level, and the winds can be strong.
In May, June and July the days are long and at midsummer, it's still
twilight at midnight. Come in August/September to see the heather in
bloom, or October/November for the autumn colours, which are spectacular.
The first snowfall on the mountain peaks comes in late October or early
November.
On
a clear night the lack of light pollution means a perfect view of the
Milky Way and it's sometimes possible to see the Aurora Borealis (Northern
Lights), like a shimmering silver curtain in the sky. Full moon can
also be magical over the loch when the sky is clear.
So
why is your address Achnasheen?
Achnasheen
has the nearest railway station and therefore it's the post town. Actually,
it's about forty miles away!
Can
we see what other guests have said about you?
Of
course! Click here to see
some recent extracts from our visitors' book.
We
want to trace our roots - what are the local clans?
This
part of Wester Ross is chiefly MacKenzie
territory. The clan includes septs relating to modern surnames Charles,
Charleson, Clunes, Clunies, Cross, Iverach, Iverson, Ivory, Kenneth,
Kennethson, Kinnach, Kynoch, Macaweeney, MacBeolain, MacBeath, MacBeth,
MacConnach, MacCure, Maceur, MacIver, MacIvor, MacKenna, MacKenney,
MacKerlich, MacKinna, MacKinney, MacKinnie, MacLeay, MacMurchie, MacMurchy,
MacQueenie, MacThearliach, MacVanish, MacVennie, MacVinish, MacVinnie,
MacWeeny, MacWhinnie, Makiver, Murchie, Murchison, Smart and Tuach.
There are also many MacLeods
- especially on the west side of Loch Ewe - and MacDonalds
in this area.
How
long does it take to drive to Coille Bheag?
See
below (all timings are approximate). Remember to allow extra time if
you have children or dogs and need to stop for lots of breaks. Before
you arrive, we will send you full directions and driving hints so that
you can find us easily!
From
Dover
14
hrs
From
London
13
hrs
From
Birmingham
9.5
hrs
From
Manchester
8.5
hrs
From
Newcastle-upon-Tyne
6
hrs
From
Glasgow
4
hrs
From
Edinburgh
4
hrs
From
Inverness
1.5
hrs
Can
we fly in?
Nothing
easier - the nearest airport is Inverness, where you can hire
a car or minibus. Flying up from London is an easy way to experience
Scotland as part of your UK holiday - it takes about an hour and a half
on a budget flight via Easyjet
from London Luton or Gatwick. xpensive
alternative is available via Gatwick.
Will we be
able to buy food when we're up there?
You
certainly won't starve! The village shop/Post Office in Poolewe is only
ten minutes' drive away and stocks everything from milk, fresh bread
and cakes, papers, toiletries and general groceries to wine, beer and
spirits. If it's fresh vegetables you're after, we can sell you our
own organic produce grown right here on the croft, plus our own free-range
eggs.
There's
also a market on Tuesdays in Poolewe where local produce and home baking
is usually available, as well as arts and crafts.
There
are also plenty of shops in Gairloch including an excellent butcher's
and two general stores, one with delicatessen. The nearest supermarket
is Somerfield in Ullapool, and there's an enormous 24-hour Tesco superstore
in Inverness. If you feel like eating out, there are cafes in Inverasdale
and Poolewe, two hotels with restaurants in Poolewe and others in Gairloch
and Badachro.
What
about banking?
There's
a Bank of Scotland in Gairloch with an ATM cash machine. There are also
cashback facilities available at the Poolewe Stores and the Wildcat
Stores in Gairloch.
If
we come off-season, will we be warm enough?
Yes!
The cottage has traditional thick stone walls and is very cosy, with
its solid fuel fire in the living room, electric panel and storage heaters
in all rooms, and the Lodge has excellent insulation and energy-efficient
electric heating. In any case, the Gulf Stream means the temperatures
here seldom drop very low. If you've never laid a fire with solid fuel
before, we'll gladly show you what to do. Please take care, especially
if you have young children or animals.
What
clothes should we bring?
Dressing
in layers is best as the weather is changeable. Bring a good waterproof
coat or jacket, and a warm jumper or fleece for chillier days. Everyone
will need wellies, plus some good weatherproof walking boots if you
plan any serious expeditions on foot. If you're heading for the peaks,
you'll need proper clothing and equipment if you don't want to become
a Mountain Rescue statistic - there's an excellent outdoor clothing
store in Poolewe if you come unprepared! Oh, and bring swimming things
- the sea can be wonderful in summer and the community-run swimming
pool in Poolewe is open all year round.
What
about phones and the internet?
There's
no telephone or internet connection at the cottage or lodge, so if you
need to stay in touch with the outside world, bring your mobile or PDA
- Vodafone and O2 reception is excellent. Some of the other networks
(like Orange!) have patchy coverage in the Highlands and if you're on
T-Mobile there's currently no coverage here at all. In an emergency,
you can be contacted on our own home number but most people are glad
of the excuse to be incommunicado!
Can
we drink the tap water?
Yes
- in fact we have the "benefit" of a brand new water treatment
plant which began servicing the region recently. However, if you prefer
the chemical-free purity of natural spring water, as the locals do,
you can collect it from the spring on the lochside road.
Is
everything supplied?
All
crockery, cutlery, glassware, pans and cooking utensils are provided.
As well as an electric cooker and refrigerator, there's a microwave,
cafétière, teapot, toaster, electric kettle and iron and
ironing board. We provide all towels, tea towels and bedding. Both properties
have access to a clothesline and indoor airer - please don't drape washing
over heaters or leave it in front of an open fire. The Cottage and The
Lodge both have family-friendly automatic washing machines. Guests are
welcome to borrow our tumble dryer if it all just gets too much.
Is
the place safe for children?
As
always, young children should play supervised, and there may be hazards
on the working areas of the croft - please keep children out of farm
sheds and away from any animals or machinery. However, the houses are
reasonably childproof, the croft is fenced, the pigs live behind an
electric fence, the quiet village road is some distance away and access
to the loch is through a latched gate. And yes - if you want to go out
without the kids one evening, we can usually babysit for you!
When
should we arrive and what should we do?
Both
properties are let from Saturday to Saturday, though in the off-season
we can sometimes fit in short breaks by arrangement. Arrive any time
after 4pm on the first day of your holiday. If you call in at our house
first (it's the one right in front of you as you drive onto the croft)
we can give you the keys and show you where everything is. Please vacate
the houses by 10 am on the day of departure so that we can get them
ready for the next guests.
Can
we bring our dog?
Yes,
if you're staying in The Cottage
- as long as he or she is well-behaved enough not to chase or worry
chickens, sheep or other animals. Please keep dogs on the lead when
outside the house - there is a wonderful beach five minutes' drive away
where you can let him or her off the lead! If you're staying in the
more luxurious environment of The
Lodge, we ask you not to bring pets.
Can
we bring our boat?
Certainly
- there's a slipway close to Coille Bheag where small boats can be launched
.
You
can also take a great trip from Gairloch harbour in the
Glass-Bottom Boat and In the season there are also frequent pleasure-boat
trips from the harbour at Ullapool, where the ferry to the Hebridean
islands also departs.
Can
we smoke?
In The Cottage, you can
smoke in the conservatory only. The
Lodge is a totally non-smoking environment. This is just about the
only rule we have, so please respect it! Also, please bear in mind that
there is a nationwide ban on smoking in public places such as pubs,
restaurants, shops and entertainment venues.
Will
we get eaten alive by midges?
No-one
pretends the Highland midge isn't a nuisance - we sometime think it's
the only reason the Highlands are still unspoiled! We're lucky at Coille
Bheag - the sea breezes mean we suffer far less than those in inland
areas. Midges don't like direct sunlight or wind, so are at their worst
at dusk between late May and August on dull, windless days. Their bites
are an irritation rather than a hazard, unlike those of continental
mosquitoes, and they are discouraged by chemical insect repellents (widely
available here!) or by natural remedies such as citronella oil.
Is
Sunday still sacred?
Many
people who have grown up in this region have a strong Protestant faith
and attend one of the Presbyterian meeting houses (chapels) for services
on Sunday. They won't force their religion on visitors, though you'll
find few work on a Sunday and most shops in rural areas are closed all
day. In the season there are one or two shops open where you can buy
Sunday papers, sandwiches and local crafts, and the Safeway supermarket
in Ullapool is open. Don't worry - no one will mind if you continue
enjoying your holiday on the Sabbath, although raucous outdoor parties
are probably not a good idea!
How
do we pay? Do you take credit cards?
We
do not accept credit cards at Coille Bheag, but if you have a Paypal
account, or want to set
one up (it's free), you can use your credit card to send funds to
us via e-mail in pounds sterling, euros or US dollars. Alternatively
you can pay by cheque in sterling (make cheques payable to Alasdair
Wright).
Do
you work through a commercial agency or tourist board?
No
- we are a 100% independently owned family business, and we prefer to
take our bookings direct from those who find us through our website
or local accommodation directories.
We
don't have an e-mail account - how do we contact you?
You
can phone us on +44 (0)01445 781783 to check availability or make a
provisional booking, and we can send the necessary forms to you by post
if you prefer.